The trend that swept the nation in the 1990s like a Jerry Maguire catchphrase is back and better than ever, what with such linger-worthy spaces as Quicksand, Lorelei and Sparrow turning oenophiles into moan-o-philes in 2025. Each bespoke build-out expands on what predecessors Digress, Modest, Grape & the Grain and Wine Bar George started in this city, but with contemporary verve and urbane styling. Now say it with me: "Show me the pét-nat!"

Yes, onigiri are the draw at William Shen's snack house inside Mills Market, but when the Japanese curry hashbrowns (of the sort you'd find at a konbini or 7-Eleven in Japan) are available — get 'em. They're hot, crispy and coated in a sweet-salty-spicy seasoning that'll have you wanting another right away. So just order two — it'll save you from having to get back into that snaking line.

Mills Market, 1110 E. Colonial Drive, unigirlfl.com

When Teddy and Sophia Dumoulin arrived in Florida last year, their intent was to establish a bakery just like the one they ran in the quaint French village of Saint-Geniès-des-Mourgues. Eh bien — mission accomplie. At their Altamonte boulangerie, baguettes "de tradition" are made using high-quality French flour from Grand Moulins de Paris (along with water, salt and yeast). After an overnight cold retardation and some time to rest, the dough is shaped, allowed to rise, then baked at 260°C for 20 minutes. The result: a beautifully caramelized loaf with a soft crumb and slightly nutty flavor.

910 Sand Lake Road, Altamonte Springs, instagram.com/jadore.thefrenchbakery

It's a place to give one's canines, be they furry or pearly, a proper workout. For dogs, an off-leash play area lends to the sights, sounds and scents of hounds a-humping, schnauzers a-sniffing and whippets a-whizzing. But on the other side of the fence, an ambitious menu by Citricos alum Chris Hernandez has guests pawing at superbly executed dishes fusing Cuban, Puerto Rican and Lebanese flavors. There's even a specially curated food menu for pups — you know, for those dog day afternoons.

724 Brookhaven Drive, barkhaven.com

There's been a spike in restaurants housing hidden concepts from within their walls. Hokey? Perhaps. But setting aside the snoot and stumbling into some of these "speakeasies" can actually be a lot of fun. Just ask the folks who sit in the Louis XV chairs inside Voodoo Bayou before being spun around into Roka Hula, an Asian tiki bar. Or the diners at Talay who make their way to the bathroom only to find themselves walking through a door leading into Noir, a dark and moody bar. Or those looking to indulge in Nola's ice cream but happen upon Hinabe, a stunning space where wagyu hotpot, beer, sake and booze flow. Corny or not, these hidden subconcepts provide an added revenue stream for restaurants and, at the very least, added intrigue for patrons.

After just one bite of the sugar-coated, deep-fried artery-hardeners served at Voodoo Bayou, your conscience, colon and cardiovascular system will demand you refrain from tearing into the sublimely flaky Crescent City confection again. But try as you might, you just won't have the heart (perhaps literally) to say no to another bite. Before you know it, you've downed another, and possibly another. Five beignets come in an order and it's a good thing they're served in a pink to-go box — it might be the only thing standing between you and a sugar coma.

7525 W. Sand Lake Road, voodoobayou.com

Don't let the name rile you. This phrou-phrou pho is the finest bowl of the Vietnamese staple being served in the city right now. Filet mignon and roasted bone marrow aside, it's the herbs procured from chef Huong Nguyen's brother-in-law's family in Vietnam — they have a farm there — that lend this bowl its unmatched aroma. And the broth? Perfect.

1830 E. Colonial Drive, eatzasian.com

While Koyla Pakistani BBQ, just down the street from the Florida Project motel, is short on looks, there's real beauty in its fare. To the side of the restaurant, under a tent, sits a long rectangular grill with hot red coals beneath dripping skewers of beef and chicken, scenting the air — but only on Sundays. Try the bihari kebab, plush chunks of eye-of-round beef marinated in papaya paste and a bit of yogurt overnight, lending them a soft, almost creamy texture with a crusty charred exterior. A "treasured family recipe" is used for the seasoning blend, but garlic, ginger, chilies, poppy seeds and nutmeg are basic elements.

4990 W. Irlo Bronson Memorial Highway, Kissimmee, koylabbq.com

While Nami is not for the slim of means, executive chef Jason Beliveau makes it a more-than-worthwhile splurge. Case in point, the whole Maine lobster ($120): a two-in-one affair featuring a platter of tail and crusher claw with a separate bowl of lobster fried rice deepened with smoked chili and bound with soy-cured egg yolk. Mind blown. One of the better dishes we've eaten in Orlando in years.

Lake Nona Wave Hotel, 6004 Artist Ave., namilakenona.com