Pizza in Orlando

It's amazing how perceptions change. It used to be someone said "Soprano" and images of gowned women singing onstage leapt to mind. Now the only caterwauling anyone is familiar with is between Tony and Carmela.

As far as I can tell, Sopranos "New York Style" Ristorante & Pizzeria owes its name to the vocal range, not The Family. Although The Boys probably would like it here.

As far as I can tell, Sopranos "New York Style" Ristorante & Pizzeria owes its name to the vocal range, not The Family. Although The Boys probably would like it here.

Sopranos is a big, Pizza-Hutty kind of place, and it is a family (small "f") spot, so be prepared for wandering children. There's a red florescent light around the perimeter of the ceiling, which casts an odd pinkish glow to everything, and signed photos hang on most of the walls, including that of the great Italian tenor Jerry Lewis. Yes, Deano is there, too.

Sopranos is a big, Pizza-Hutty kind of place, and it is a family (small "f") spot, so be prepared for wandering children. There's a red florescent light around the perimeter of the ceiling, which casts an odd pinkish glow to everything, and signed photos hang on most of the walls, including that of the great Italian tenor Jerry Lewis. Yes, Deano is there, too.

The menu is very large, with sauces of the parmigiana, scaloppini and marsala varieties covering the meat and eggplant choices. I liked several appetizers -- the fried calamari ($5.95) was superb, about as tender as any I've had in town. (Be sure to ask for lots of lemon, if you're like me and don't like it with tomato sauce.) It's not exactly an Italian dish, but the salmon carpaccio ($8.95) is another good choice, thin shavings of smoked salmon with lovely capers and onions, along with diced tomatoes drizzled with olive oil.

The menu is very large, with sauces of the parmigiana, scaloppini and marsala varieties covering the meat and eggplant choices. I liked several appetizers -- the fried calamari ($5.95) was superb, about as tender as any I've had in town. (Be sure to ask for lots of lemon, if you're like me and don't like it with tomato sauce.) It's not exactly an Italian dish, but the salmon carpaccio ($8.95) is another good choice, thin shavings of smoked salmon with lovely capers and onions, along with diced tomatoes drizzled with olive oil.

I wish that the squid in the "zuppa di pesce" ($14.95) was as tender as the appetizer, but it was a bit disappointing. Still, the dish itself was almost worth ordering just for the deeply flavored mussels, which benefited from a thick and not-too-sweet marinara spiked with wine. If I'd known that the squid were chewy and the shrimp on the small side, I would have just ordered the mussels alone.

I wish that the squid in the "zuppa di pesce" ($14.95) was as tender as the appetizer, but it was a bit disappointing. Still, the dish itself was almost worth ordering just for the deeply flavored mussels, which benefited from a thick and not-too-sweet marinara spiked with wine. If I'd known that the squid were chewy and the shrimp on the small side, I would have just ordered the mussels alone.

You'll find an excellent chicken piccata here, tender breasts in a sauce perfectly balanced between tart lemon and sweet wine. And, of course, more capers. (Is there a new industrial caper factory somewhere in the Midwest?)

You'll find an excellent chicken piccata here, tender breasts in a sauce perfectly balanced between tart lemon and sweet wine. And, of course, more capers. (Is there a new industrial caper factory somewhere in the Midwest?)

You can see the kitchen/staging area from the dining room, and this is where the takeout pizzas are boxed. I lost count at 10 people in that small space, and to watch the ballet, as they barely avoid each other, is entertainment.

You can see the kitchen/staging area from the dining room, and this is where the takeout pizzas are boxed. I lost count at 10 people in that small space, and to watch the ballet, as they barely avoid each other, is entertainment.

Service is good but easily distracted when the place gets busy. My advice: Order everything at once, because it may be a while until you see your server again.

Service is good but easily distracted when the place gets busy. My advice: Order everything at once, because it may be a while until you see your server again.

If you're looking for gourmet Italian, fuggetaboudit. Sopranos ain't the place. But you will get an undemanding and decent meal.

The Wolfgang Puck Cafe could be appealing or annoying, depending on how you feel about its location in Downtown Disney West Side.

The tourist zone seems to creep inside the dining area, clashing with the original concept of upscale-casual California cuisine. Not surprisingly, the decor is wild, colorful and playful. Corporate touches are found even on the menu, where a simple motto ("Live, Love, Eat") is flanked by a trademark symbol.

The tourist zone seems to creep inside the dining area, clashing with the original concept of upscale-casual California cuisine. Not surprisingly, the decor is wild, colorful and playful. Corporate touches are found even on the menu, where a simple motto ("Live, Love, Eat") is flanked by a trademark symbol.

From the moment we entered, we were primed by the tantalizing aromas of fire-roasted pizzas, pastas, burgers and grilled fare. We discovered some delicious menu items, but the barbecue duck quesadilla ($8.95) was a letdown for starters.

From the moment we entered, we were primed by the tantalizing aromas of fire-roasted pizzas, pastas, burgers and grilled fare. We discovered some delicious menu items, but the barbecue duck quesadilla ($8.95) was a letdown for starters.

Each guest took a slice, and there were polite pronouncements of "Mm, good," but no strong opinions. It was filled with more cheese than duck, and it was topped with chili sauce, sour cream and pico de gallo.

Each guest took a slice, and there were polite pronouncements of "Mm, good," but no strong opinions. It was filled with more cheese than duck, and it was topped with chili sauce, sour cream and pico de gallo.

"Puck's Pucks" were by far our favorite, although they were horrendously overpriced. For $11.95, we received two crab cakes the size of powder puffs.

"Puck's Pucks" were by far our favorite, although they were horrendously overpriced. For $11.95, we received two crab cakes the size of powder puffs.

The waitress described them as "90 percent bluefin crab lump meat," which made several of us wonder when crabs started growing fins. But the meat was fresh and sweet, seasoned with mustard caper sauce, bits of carrots and corn and a bittersweet baby arugula salad on the side.

The waitress described them as "90 percent bluefin crab lump meat," which made several of us wonder when crabs started growing fins. But the meat was fresh and sweet, seasoned with mustard caper sauce, bits of carrots and corn and a bittersweet baby arugula salad on the side.

Everyone at our table gave a rowdy thumbs-down to the "signature pizza" ($14.95), which was topped with chilled salmon, red onion and dill sauce. The comments ranged from "Ugh" to "God-awful." The salmon was obviously premium. Yet it was too clammy for our pizza sensibilities.

Everyone at our table gave a rowdy thumbs-down to the "signature pizza" ($14.95), which was topped with chilled salmon, red onion and dill sauce. The comments ranged from "Ugh" to "God-awful." The salmon was obviously premium. Yet it was too clammy for our pizza sensibilities.

Spinach papardelle ($10.95) was a pleasing blend of textures and flavors. Wide strips of egg and spinach pasta were crimped on the edges, and tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, Chenel goat cheese, basil and double-blanched garlic cloves.

Spinach papardelle ($10.95) was a pleasing blend of textures and flavors. Wide strips of egg and spinach pasta were crimped on the edges, and tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, Chenel goat cheese, basil and double-blanched garlic cloves.

Service was a bit overzealous. We received three updates in 10 minutes on the status of an appetizer. One guest was still working on his Diet Coke when a waitress swooped in for a re-fill, adding iced tea.

Service was a bit overzealous. We received three updates in 10 minutes on the status of an appetizer. One guest was still working on his Diet Coke when a waitress swooped in for a re-fill, adding iced tea.

Another friend complained of dizziness at the end of the meal, only half-jokingly. We attributed it to the busy decor and that general lack of bearing that sometimes sneaks up on you in Disney country.