Locations in Orlando

You like thick slabs of meat? You like a room full of dark wood, tuxedo-clad waiters and a wine list that looks like a small phone book? Then you will like Vito's Chop House.

From the folks who brought us Fish Bones Restaurant comes Vito's, a re-creation of an old-fashion New York steakhouse. Over-the-top elegance is the game here, from gigantic portions to ultra-attentive waiters to the decor, which packs wine bottles into every spare millimeter of the main dinning room.

From the folks who brought us Fish Bones Restaurant comes Vito's, a re-creation of an old-fashion New York steakhouse. Over-the-top elegance is the game here, from gigantic portions to ultra-attentive waiters to the decor, which packs wine bottles into every spare millimeter of the main dinning room.

As seafood plays a strong second to red meat at Vito's, my friend and I started with "cold seafood antipasto" ($29.95). Ludicrously served in multiple trays of ice stacked 3 feet high (like a wedding cake), this was a delicious, if overpriced, appetizer. The chilled oysters, clams, New Zealand mussels, jumbo shrimp and Maine lobster were succulent and first-rate, but the $30 price tag was as excessive as the presentation. It effectively blocked all eye contact with the other side of the table. This dish should be served on one tray and the price cut by a third.

As seafood plays a strong second to red meat at Vito's, my friend and I started with "cold seafood antipasto" ($29.95). Ludicrously served in multiple trays of ice stacked 3 feet high (like a wedding cake), this was a delicious, if overpriced, appetizer. The chilled oysters, clams, New Zealand mussels, jumbo shrimp and Maine lobster were succulent and first-rate, but the $30 price tag was as excessive as the presentation. It effectively blocked all eye contact with the other side of the table. This dish should be served on one tray and the price cut by a third.

To help decide entree meats, our waitress presented a tray of thick, raw steaks wrapped in cellophane and proceeded to explain the various cuts. The show and tell was a nice touch. Fortified with knowledge, we ordered a 24-ounce prime rib-eye ($22.95) and a 24-ounce porterhouse veal chop ($22.95). According to the menu, Vito's grills meat very hot and fast over orange, oak and mystique woods. With cuts often 2 inches thick, this is the perfect place to order a steak "Pittsburgh blue" (seared on the outside, cool blue and raw on the inside). But not being into the raw-beef thing, we opted instead for medium-rare on both cuts.

To help decide entree meats, our waitress presented a tray of thick, raw steaks wrapped in cellophane and proceeded to explain the various cuts. The show and tell was a nice touch. Fortified with knowledge, we ordered a 24-ounce prime rib-eye ($22.95) and a 24-ounce porterhouse veal chop ($22.95). According to the menu, Vito's grills meat very hot and fast over orange, oak and mystique woods. With cuts often 2 inches thick, this is the perfect place to order a steak "Pittsburgh blue" (seared on the outside, cool blue and raw on the inside). But not being into the raw-beef thing, we opted instead for medium-rare on both cuts.

The meat was served alone, glistening and sizzling atop a gleaming white plate. The steaks were huge, covered most of the plates, suggesting not just dinner but some lower species freshly conquered and killed by the kitchen staff.

The meat was served alone, glistening and sizzling atop a gleaming white plate. The steaks were huge, covered most of the plates, suggesting not just dinner but some lower species freshly conquered and killed by the kitchen staff.

Being well-marbled, the selections had spectacular flavor. Silence fell over our table as my friend and I descended into unrestrained protein lust. Eating meat at Vito's will make you feel like a caveman (or a stockbroker).

Being well-marbled, the selections had spectacular flavor. Silence fell over our table as my friend and I descended into unrestrained protein lust. Eating meat at Vito's will make you feel like a caveman (or a stockbroker).

An excellent salad and wonderful bread comes with every entree, but vegetables are an optional side, ranging from a giant baked potato ($2.50) to a medley of oak-grilled vegetables ($5.95).

An excellent salad and wonderful bread comes with every entree, but vegetables are an optional side, ranging from a giant baked potato ($2.50) to a medley of oak-grilled vegetables ($5.95).

The dessert tray offered more ridiculously huge choices. We went for the "peanut butter explosion" and a house special "grilled peach D'Vito" (each $8.95). The "explosion" should have been called "wall o' peanut butter." This monstrous slab was too dense for us to tackle without a gallon of milk and several sugar-starved teen-agers. The "peach D'Vito" was a similarly sized but glorious mix of grilled peach chunks, cinnamon, flavored whip cream, ice cream and liquors. We demolished this sweet treat down to the last drop. It should not be missed.

Sooner or later, chances are you'll end up at White Wolf Cafe on a Saturday night. It might be to catch a cappuccino and dessert after a show at Theatre Downtown, which is right up the block. Or maybe to celebrate a special occasion with a group of friends around one of the bigger tables. From an outdoor vantage, you can watch activity along the strip of Orange Avenue that's an artsy jumble of antique and gift stores. There are a half dozen marble-top tables outside on the sidewalk, buffered from traffic by rows of potted plants.

This antique-market-turned-cafe on the fringes of downtown has become a landmark hangout since opening in 1991, known for its quirky, romantic setting and its easy pace. The comfortable clutter of antique armoires, framed photographs, books and chandeliers add more than ambience. If you like a piece of furniture, the restaurant will likely sell it to you.

Evening entertainment on Thursdays through Saturdays, usually an acoustic guitarist, helps to set the scene that's suitable for drinks as well as full-blown dinner. The eclectic menu includes vegetarian burgers, Middle Eastern mango-nut tabouli, low-fat focaccia pizzas and Moroccan chicken salad with almonds, raisins and bananas.

Inconsistency has been a recurring problem, which we experienced on our visit. Our meal got off to a great start when we took our waitress' recommendation for the "bianca lavosh" ($7.50), a whisper-thin cracker-crust pizza, topped with delicate portions of mozzarella, Romano, spinach, tomato and feta. Brushed with olive oil and dusted with minced garlic, it was sizzling, steamy and delicious.

For entrees, our waitress urged us to try the popular three-cheese lasagna ($9.95), as well as chicken and mozzarella brioche ($10.95). We were stunned when less than five minutes later, we had both dishes at our table. But the outside of the lasagna was only vaguely warm and the inside was cool -- it obviously had not been prepared to order. Had it been served fresh, it surely would have been a winner. The flavors were lively and multidimensional, and there was plenty of mozzarella and ricotta.

We flagged down the waitress, who by now was overwhelmed with more customers and tables than anyone should have to manage. She offered to take the lasagna back to the kitchen to be warmed up, but it was a good 10 minutes before she returned with it.

By then, we were finished with the brioche, which was a delicately seasoned chicken breast, baked inside a baguette of French bread with melted mozzarella. Everything that was good about this dish seemed to get lost in the excessive portion of bread. The menu promised it would be "smothered" with marinara, but the portion of sauce was too slim to make an impact.

White Wolf Cafe generally does an outstanding job with its mousses, layer cakes, cheesecakes and tortes. On the night we visited, apple pie a la mode ($5.25) was no exception. The crust had a brown-sugar/cinnamon bite, and the baked-apple filling was sweet and decadent. Vanilla-bean ice cream melted dreamily over it all.

Although White Wolf Cafe's wait staff is generally friendly, that doesn't make up for requests not being met in a timely manner. But the atmosphere is charming and relaxed enough that this small restaurant will remain a favorite midtown destination. Keep in mind that the noise volume inside can be too high for relaxed conversation during peak periods and especially when there's entertainment.

If you want to start an argument at a table full of men, don't bother questioning religious beliefs, views on women or slamming the local football team. Ask them about the best way to barbecue.

And we're not even talking about Korean bulgogi, Indian tandoori or Spanish churrasco. No, this debate is between Texas brisket and Memphis pulled pig, Kansas City spareribs or North Carolina pork, wet cooking or dry rub. When the Wild-horse Saloon at Disney was focused on food, the chef was a dry-rubbed fanatic, which made for eye-rollingly superb food. Now that Wildfires has opened downtown, it looks like we have a winner again.

And we're not even talking about Korean bulgogi, Indian tandoori or Spanish churrasco. No, this debate is between Texas brisket and Memphis pulled pig, Kansas City spareribs or North Carolina pork, wet cooking or dry rub. When the Wild-horse Saloon at Disney was focused on food, the chef was a dry-rubbed fanatic, which made for eye-rollingly superb food. Now that Wildfires has opened downtown, it looks like we have a winner again.

The corner place on Washington Street used to be an Out of Hand Burrito Stand, which took over for the similar Chez Jose. Now a group led by Rosario Poma (Pacino's, Wise Guys of Chicago, Key W. Kools), who was connected with the XS Orlando restaurant when it first opened, has brought smoke to Thornton Park, and where there's smoke ...

The corner place on Washington Street used to be an Out of Hand Burrito Stand, which took over for the similar Chez Jose. Now a group led by Rosario Poma (Pacino's, Wise Guys of Chicago, Key W. Kools), who was connected with the XS Orlando restaurant when it first opened, has brought smoke to Thornton Park, and where there's smoke ...

You won't be terribly shocked by the menu, although a few things go beyond ribs 'n' bird, like smoked portobella sandwiches ($5.95) and fried shrimp ($8.95). Please avoid the chicken crostini appetizer: While the meat is fine, the bread, which by definition should be crunchy, is so limp that a fork is mandatory.

You won't be terribly shocked by the menu, although a few things go beyond ribs 'n' bird, like smoked portobella sandwiches ($5.95) and fried shrimp ($8.95). Please avoid the chicken crostini appetizer: While the meat is fine, the bread, which by definition should be crunchy, is so limp that a fork is mandatory.

But you don't go to a kosher deli and order a ham sandwich, and you don't go to a smokehouse for bread -- you go for ribs! From a half-rack for $6.40 to the rib, chicken and pork "sampler" for $11.95, these babies are a good definition of barbecue. Dry rubbing takes hours before the slow heat and dense smoke cooks the meat, leaving a crust of spices and a mellow, dark taste. Don't smother them with sauce, even though it's available.

But you don't go to a kosher deli and order a ham sandwich, and you don't go to a smokehouse for bread -- you go for ribs! From a half-rack for $6.40 to the rib, chicken and pork "sampler" for $11.95, these babies are a good definition of barbecue. Dry rubbing takes hours before the slow heat and dense smoke cooks the meat, leaving a crust of spices and a mellow, dark taste. Don't smother them with sauce, even though it's available.

If you're not interested in meat, there are a couple of fish items on the menu. The oak-grilled mahi ($12.95) is a tasty bit of tender, juicy fish, but you will look over at the servings of your more carnivorous tablemates and wonder what you did wrong: They have massive, overflowing portions and you have a sliver of a meal by comparison. The corn and tomato salsa that accompanies the fish is an unfortunately boring choice, lacking both flavor and interest.

If you're not interested in meat, there are a couple of fish items on the menu. The oak-grilled mahi ($12.95) is a tasty bit of tender, juicy fish, but you will look over at the servings of your more carnivorous tablemates and wonder what you did wrong: They have massive, overflowing portions and you have a sliver of a meal by comparison. The corn and tomato salsa that accompanies the fish is an unfortunately boring choice, lacking both flavor and interest.

But if you order the chicken, you'll know you're on to something. The firm and juicy meat is sweet from smoke -- almost apple-tasting -- and falls apart in your hand ($7.95 for a half bird).

But if you order the chicken, you'll know you're on to something. The firm and juicy meat is sweet from smoke -- almost apple-tasting -- and falls apart in your hand ($7.95 for a half bird).

There's live jazz on weekends, and I'm told more Orlando locations are in the works. Go, grab some well-crafted 'cue. There's no bones about it.

The last time I'd visited downtown Mount Dora was during the annual art festival. Anyone who has attended the event know that finding a vacant table in one of the town's permanent restaurants is a feat in itself.

On a more recent morning when I didn't have to fight the crowds, I set out to investigate a tiny and intriguing respite, the Windsor Rose English Tea Room. We might have missed the restaurant, which is tucked just off the town's main thoroughfare, Donnelly Street, if not for its Union Jack snapping in the brisk breeze.

On a more recent morning when I didn't have to fight the crowds, I set out to investigate a tiny and intriguing respite, the Windsor Rose English Tea Room. We might have missed the restaurant, which is tucked just off the town's main thoroughfare, Donnelly Street, if not for its Union Jack snapping in the brisk breeze.

Arriving around 12:30 pm, we were greeted promptly and seated at one of several tables for two. In fact, the largest tables seat only four.

Arriving around 12:30 pm, we were greeted promptly and seated at one of several tables for two. In fact, the largest tables seat only four.

Floral chintz tablecloths under glass, floral English bone china, crystal sugar bowls and hardwood floors create a delightful tearoom ambience amid a charmingly clutter of bric-a-brac.

Floral chintz tablecloths under glass, floral English bone china, crystal sugar bowls and hardwood floors create a delightful tearoom ambience amid a charmingly clutter of bric-a-brac.

A British bobby's helmet, framed photos of the royal family members past and present, U.K. souvenir mugs, teapot cozies and jars of English fruit preserves are for sale. Prices range from $2.99 for a package of English tea bags to $270 for a commemorative Royal Wedding Wedgewood set.

A British bobby's helmet, framed photos of the royal family members past and present, U.K. souvenir mugs, teapot cozies and jars of English fruit preserves are for sale. Prices range from $2.99 for a package of English tea bags to $270 for a commemorative Royal Wedding Wedgewood set.

A lovely vase of gladiolas decorated the cashier's counter, along with freshly baked desserts.

A lovely vase of gladiolas decorated the cashier's counter, along with freshly baked desserts.

My friend and I decided to share the Windsor Rose "full English tea for two" ($15).Our server approved of our choice upon learning this was our first visit, since it would provide a wide sample of goodies.

My friend and I decided to share the Windsor Rose "full English tea for two" ($15).Our server approved of our choice upon learning this was our first visit, since it would provide a wide sample of goodies.

The presentation arrived in short order on a trilevel serving piece dressed with floral sprigs. The bottom layer was brimming with four types of finger sandwiches, the middle with a pair of hefty scones, butter pats and whipped cream; the top tier held three luscious desserts. A pot of tea, insulated by a floral cozy, was delivered instantaneously.

The presentation arrived in short order on a trilevel serving piece dressed with floral sprigs. The bottom layer was brimming with four types of finger sandwiches, the middle with a pair of hefty scones, butter pats and whipped cream; the top tier held three luscious desserts. A pot of tea, insulated by a floral cozy, was delivered instantaneously.

The pairs of finger sandwich triangles were refreshingly light and included salmon and cream cheese on white; smoked turkey with butter on wheat; egg salad with cream cheese on white; and our favorite, chopped walnuts and cream cheese with a hint of raspberry preserves on pumpernickel. The tea was piping hot and wonderfully mild.

The pairs of finger sandwich triangles were refreshingly light and included salmon and cream cheese on white; smoked turkey with butter on wheat; egg salad with cream cheese on white; and our favorite, chopped walnuts and cream cheese with a hint of raspberry preserves on pumpernickel. The tea was piping hot and wonderfully mild.

We then tackled the scones. While prepared a bit differently than I remembered from my London high tea introduction to this Scottish quick bread several years ago, they were immensely enjoyable. Baked with raisin bits, they had a light, cake-like texture. I slathered on some strawberry preserves for a wonderfully sweet taste treat.

We then tackled the scones. While prepared a bit differently than I remembered from my London high tea introduction to this Scottish quick bread several years ago, they were immensely enjoyable. Baked with raisin bits, they had a light, cake-like texture. I slathered on some strawberry preserves for a wonderfully sweet taste treat.

We paused to catch our breath and let our food settle a bit before dessert time. Two of the pastries were chocolate: one resembled a brownie, dusted with confectioners' sugar, but had a distinctly strong, spicy flavor that we were told was ginger; the other was fudgelike, with a cookie crust and a walnut-bit garnish. The morsels were very rich and large enough for sharing.

We paused to catch our breath and let our food settle a bit before dessert time. Two of the pastries were chocolate: one resembled a brownie, dusted with confectioners' sugar, but had a distinctly strong, spicy flavor that we were told was ginger; the other was fudgelike, with a cookie crust and a walnut-bit garnish. The morsels were very rich and large enough for sharing.

The pièce de résistance was the pair of Queen Victoria sponge cake slices, crowned by a fresh strawberry sliver and powdered sugar, and filled with strawberry preserves and cream cheese. The mixture of flavors had the effect of being sweet but not cloying. We shared one slice and took the other one home.

The pièce de résistance was the pair of Queen Victoria sponge cake slices, crowned by a fresh strawberry sliver and powdered sugar, and filled with strawberry preserves and cream cheese. The mixture of flavors had the effect of being sweet but not cloying. We shared one slice and took the other one home.

All in all, we had a lovely time. Our server wasn't as charming as we might have expected, but was efficient enough. The Windsor Rose is worth a visit on your next Mount Dora outing.

After the slap of Charley and too many hours in a powerless, mildewing kitchen, the sight of the lights aglow inside Winnie's Oriental Garden drew us in like a magnet.

Though dressed in post-hurricane attire, we were welcomed by the young host, who sat us out of sight of the main dining area (at our request) in a corner table near the bar, in perfect sight of the color TV. (Another old friend, the A/C, was doing its job too.) We were just going to order takeout, but were convinced to sit and enjoy and not worry about our downscale attire.

Though dressed in post-hurricane attire, we were welcomed by the young host, who sat us out of sight of the main dining area (at our request) in a corner table near the bar, in perfect sight of the color TV. (Another old friend, the A/C, was doing its job too.) We were just going to order takeout, but were convinced to sit and enjoy and not worry about our downscale attire.

Gracious, relaxed service and a sense of elegance – fresh flowers, pleasant music – has been the hallmark of Winnie's ever since it opened in 1996. Before that, for 15 years, Winnie ran the China Garden restaurant in Winter Park, which never recaptured her classy touch. The sense of elegance extends to Winnie's menu as well, which has always been a cut above the area's other Chinese restaurants.

Gracious, relaxed service and a sense of elegance – fresh flowers, pleasant music – has been the hallmark of Winnie's ever since it opened in 1996. Before that, for 15 years, Winnie ran the China Garden restaurant in Winter Park, which never recaptured her classy touch. The sense of elegance extends to Winnie's menu as well, which has always been a cut above the area's other Chinese restaurants.

Never mind the hurricane hardships, the typical pampering experience was the same on this night. Warm towels were delivered by our server, and it was tempting to use them for more than just grimy fingers, considering the habituation to cold showers.

Never mind the hurricane hardships, the typical pampering experience was the same on this night. Warm towels were delivered by our server, and it was tempting to use them for more than just grimy fingers, considering the habituation to cold showers.

Ordering was easy: For an appetizer, the four pieces of crab rangoon ($4.25) were crispy outside and full of creamy flavor. For an entree, the moo shoo vegetables ($8.25) are the best in town (if anyone else even offers this meatless version), and served with brown rice, if requested. The savory gravy holds together the colorful shredded vegetables that you roll up in Mandarin pancakes spread with hoisin sauce, and savor to the last bite.

Ordering was easy: For an appetizer, the four pieces of crab rangoon ($4.25) were crispy outside and full of creamy flavor. For an entree, the moo shoo vegetables ($8.25) are the best in town (if anyone else even offers this meatless version), and served with brown rice, if requested. The savory gravy holds together the colorful shredded vegetables that you roll up in Mandarin pancakes spread with hoisin sauce, and savor to the last bite.

Winnie, you still rock like a hurricane.

The Wolfgang Puck Cafe could be appealing or annoying, depending on how you feel about its location in Downtown Disney West Side.

The tourist zone seems to creep inside the dining area, clashing with the original concept of upscale-casual California cuisine. Not surprisingly, the decor is wild, colorful and playful. Corporate touches are found even on the menu, where a simple motto ("Live, Love, Eat") is flanked by a trademark symbol.

The tourist zone seems to creep inside the dining area, clashing with the original concept of upscale-casual California cuisine. Not surprisingly, the decor is wild, colorful and playful. Corporate touches are found even on the menu, where a simple motto ("Live, Love, Eat") is flanked by a trademark symbol.

From the moment we entered, we were primed by the tantalizing aromas of fire-roasted pizzas, pastas, burgers and grilled fare. We discovered some delicious menu items, but the barbecue duck quesadilla ($8.95) was a letdown for starters.

From the moment we entered, we were primed by the tantalizing aromas of fire-roasted pizzas, pastas, burgers and grilled fare. We discovered some delicious menu items, but the barbecue duck quesadilla ($8.95) was a letdown for starters.

Each guest took a slice, and there were polite pronouncements of "Mm, good," but no strong opinions. It was filled with more cheese than duck, and it was topped with chili sauce, sour cream and pico de gallo.

Each guest took a slice, and there were polite pronouncements of "Mm, good," but no strong opinions. It was filled with more cheese than duck, and it was topped with chili sauce, sour cream and pico de gallo.

"Puck's Pucks" were by far our favorite, although they were horrendously overpriced. For $11.95, we received two crab cakes the size of powder puffs.

"Puck's Pucks" were by far our favorite, although they were horrendously overpriced. For $11.95, we received two crab cakes the size of powder puffs.

The waitress described them as "90 percent bluefin crab lump meat," which made several of us wonder when crabs started growing fins. But the meat was fresh and sweet, seasoned with mustard caper sauce, bits of carrots and corn and a bittersweet baby arugula salad on the side.

The waitress described them as "90 percent bluefin crab lump meat," which made several of us wonder when crabs started growing fins. But the meat was fresh and sweet, seasoned with mustard caper sauce, bits of carrots and corn and a bittersweet baby arugula salad on the side.

Everyone at our table gave a rowdy thumbs-down to the "signature pizza" ($14.95), which was topped with chilled salmon, red onion and dill sauce. The comments ranged from "Ugh" to "God-awful." The salmon was obviously premium. Yet it was too clammy for our pizza sensibilities.

Everyone at our table gave a rowdy thumbs-down to the "signature pizza" ($14.95), which was topped with chilled salmon, red onion and dill sauce. The comments ranged from "Ugh" to "God-awful." The salmon was obviously premium. Yet it was too clammy for our pizza sensibilities.

Spinach papardelle ($10.95) was a pleasing blend of textures and flavors. Wide strips of egg and spinach pasta were crimped on the edges, and tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, Chenel goat cheese, basil and double-blanched garlic cloves.

Spinach papardelle ($10.95) was a pleasing blend of textures and flavors. Wide strips of egg and spinach pasta were crimped on the edges, and tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, Chenel goat cheese, basil and double-blanched garlic cloves.

Service was a bit overzealous. We received three updates in 10 minutes on the status of an appetizer. One guest was still working on his Diet Coke when a waitress swooped in for a re-fill, adding iced tea.

Service was a bit overzealous. We received three updates in 10 minutes on the status of an appetizer. One guest was still working on his Diet Coke when a waitress swooped in for a re-fill, adding iced tea.

Another friend complained of dizziness at the end of the meal, only half-jokingly. We attributed it to the busy decor and that general lack of bearing that sometimes sneaks up on you in Disney country.

The section of South Orange Blossom Trail on the edge of Florida Mall territory has been catering to varying appetites for some time as the area continues to diversify. One of the area's few German restaurants is here (Gain's), Amigos caters to the Tex-Mex crowd, and Laxmi Plaza offers food and sundry shopping to a growing population of Indian residents.

And when it comes to healthy appetites, Woodlands -- across the road from Laxmi -- is a restaurant worth adding to your go-to list. As their website (woodlands-usa.com) proclaims, "Step-in and you will be wafted with the aroma of enthralling culinary appetizing that the already proud regular customers are experiencing now."

You also could be experiencing now the flavors, aromas and visual delight of the South Indian cuisine served here.

Recipes from the southern region, the ancient India below the Vindhya Mountains, are based on Hindu tradition and use ingredients differently than the northern menus we're more familiar with. So no Kashmiri dishes like tandoori, no naan bread, no vindaloo. And no meat -- Woodlands maintains a "pure vegetarian" kitchen. (That means no animal fats, either.)

Purely delightful is more to the point. Coconut milk instead of cream, mustard seeds and fiery-hot chili peppers add to the distinctive cookery. Woodlands specializes in dosai -- thin, plate-sized crepes that are fried crisp or filled with savory items like hot chutney or potatoes ($4.75 to $6.50).

The traditional spicy and sour soup called rasam ($2.50), hot with peppers and sweet with tamarind, is a heated warm-up for dishes that stimulate every part of the tongue. Rich and sometimes smoky flavors inhabit "Gobi Manchurian" ($6.50), sautéed cauliflower, sharp with ginger and garlic, and spiced with chili and soy sauce. A concoction of lentils, brown rice and vegetables called "pongol avial" is one you'll want again ($6.50). My favorite Indian curry, the spinach-based palak paneer ($6.95) is done to a deep, creamy and slightly hot perfection.

Settling in on a favorite is fine, but the bargain is one of the dinner specials. "Mysore Royal Thali" ($14.95) combines samosa appetizers, chana chickpea curry, spiced lentil sambar and more into a feast of bright colors (such as the green coriander raita sauce) and dazzling tastes.

Offer thanks to the portrait by the front door of Sri Ganesha, the elephant-headed god of luck and new beginnings, for such a fine meal. As it says on the website, "We guarantee a sound and happy sleep after dinnertime at Woodlands."And one with a warm and satisfied belly.

With the staggering number of Japanese restaurants that have opened recently, it's getting really hard to review sushi bars. I mean, how many times can you say "fresh" to describe raw fish? Of course the sushi is fresh; the place wouldn't be in business very long if it wasn't. If there were two or three places, the scale would be manageable ... but I'm looking at a casual list of almost two dozen places, not including chains like Kobe, so where does the line get drawn between good and bad, exceptional and only so-so?

I can say that Yae Sushi, one of the older, more established restaurants in the area, doesn't really raise the bar very much. I've had much, much worse, true, but I've had better. But this is something I'm sure you've said about a lot of restaurants, so let's just skip to what is good and unique about the place.

I can say that Yae Sushi, one of the older, more established restaurants in the area, doesn't really raise the bar very much. I've had much, much worse, true, but I've had better. But this is something I'm sure you've said about a lot of restaurants, so let's just skip to what is good and unique about the place.

ROLLS! Lots and lots of sushi rolls, more than you might find in any two other places combined: the standard rice-with-seaweed kind along with a dizzying variety of specialties. Go ahead, try to choose between the "space shuttle" roll (tempura shrimp, fish roe, avocado and cucumber) and the "panther" (tuna, cream cheese, asparagus and roe). Speaking of panthers, there's a whole section of maki for sports fans, with "Seminole," "UCF Knight" and "Tampa Buc" rolls. The "Gator" was particularly enticing to me, and not because I follow football -- any sushi that involves tempura gator tail, I have to try. And you know what? It's very good.

ROLLS! Lots and lots of sushi rolls, more than you might find in any two other places combined: the standard rice-with-seaweed kind along with a dizzying variety of specialties. Go ahead, try to choose between the "space shuttle" roll (tempura shrimp, fish roe, avocado and cucumber) and the "panther" (tuna, cream cheese, asparagus and roe). Speaking of panthers, there's a whole section of maki for sports fans, with "Seminole," "UCF Knight" and "Tampa Buc" rolls. The "Gator" was particularly enticing to me, and not because I follow football -- any sushi that involves tempura gator tail, I have to try. And you know what? It's very good.

There's a lot of avocado on the menu, and quite a few salmon rolls. Some selections are better than others. If you're very adventurous, order the kimchee roll or a "banzai" with conch and extremely hot sauce -- I guess wasabi isn't hot enough for some. Don't bother with "Yae jumbo," a futo-maki-style roll, with crab (fake), cream cheese, pickled gourd and avocado within a very large rice circle; it's just about everything I don't like about "modern" sushi all rolled into one, pardon the pun.

There's a lot of avocado on the menu, and quite a few salmon rolls. Some selections are better than others. If you're very adventurous, order the kimchee roll or a "banzai" with conch and extremely hot sauce -- I guess wasabi isn't hot enough for some. Don't bother with "Yae jumbo," a futo-maki-style roll, with crab (fake), cream cheese, pickled gourd and avocado within a very large rice circle; it's just about everything I don't like about "modern" sushi all rolled into one, pardon the pun.

Unagi might sound like the name of the teacher in "The Karate Kid," but it's actually freshwater eel, and I am crazy for it, so it's a good indicator to me of the caliber of the kitchen. Again, it's nicely done at Yae Sushi but not spectacular. What is nice is the size of the portions, particularly when ordering the dinner specials, where everything but the kitchen sink is included at a good price, and you could probably get the sink, too, if you asked (combos run from $12.50-$21).

Unagi might sound like the name of the teacher in "The Karate Kid," but it's actually freshwater eel, and I am crazy for it, so it's a good indicator to me of the caliber of the kitchen. Again, it's nicely done at Yae Sushi but not spectacular. What is nice is the size of the portions, particularly when ordering the dinner specials, where everything but the kitchen sink is included at a good price, and you could probably get the sink, too, if you asked (combos run from $12.50-$21).

One note: If you value your taste buds and nostrils, refuse the customary hot towel; it's loaded with a perfume that will overpower any other sensation.

One note: If you value your taste buds and nostrils, refuse the customary hot towel; it's loaded with a perfume that will overpower any other sensation.

If you're at all wary about eating sushi, I would recommend coming to Yae. There are enough wild and wacky rolls that you're bound to find something that will appeal to you.